Volvo V40 Changing the Cam Belt
This information has been gathered from personal experience and is believed to be accurate but there is no guarantee
that this is the case. Anyone using this information does so on the understanding that its use is completely at their own risk and that no legal liability of any kind will be accepted by the author for errors or ommisions or consequential damage to persons or possessions. Prospective
users should make their own considered judgement or seek specialist advice as to the accuracy or otherwise of any statements made before using this information in any way. Some of the procedures covered e.g the Cam belt change could significantly damage your engine if not carried out correctly so if in doubt seek professional help.
that this is the case. Anyone using this information does so on the understanding that its use is completely at their own risk and that no legal liability of any kind will be accepted by the author for errors or ommisions or consequential damage to persons or possessions. Prospective
users should make their own considered judgement or seek specialist advice as to the accuracy or otherwise of any statements made before using this information in any way. Some of the procedures covered e.g the Cam belt change could significantly damage your engine if not carried out correctly so if in doubt seek professional help.
My V40 was a 2003 1.9D model and had the Renualt engine type D4192T3. The V40 can have one of several different engines so it is vitally important to establish the correct version before folllowing instructions on VADIS or any other information. I have VADIS and also the relevant Haynes manual for the Renault Megane (2002-2005).
The auxiliary belt driving the alternator and the power steering and air conditioning pumps is removed first. To gain access the Engine cover is removed. The ECU has to be removed from the side of the engine bay and tied out of the way, to make the job easier it is worth removing the bolts securing the power steering and air-conditioning tubing above the ECU, also the bolts securing the wiring loom to the bulkhead. It is tricky manouvering the ECU out so be careful and avoid snagging the electrical connector of the os headlamp. With the ECU out of the way the auxiliary belt may be removed. By using a spanner on the hexagonal key on the tensioner, its tension can be eased to allow removal of the belt.
Rotate the steering hard to the right to gain access to the crankshaft bolt, no need to remove the inner wing plastic shield as a small flap allows access. It is helpful if the front of the car is also be jacked up and supported on axle stands for safety.
The engine also requires supporting as the off side (OS) engine mount has to be removed. Without support extra stress will be imposed on the other engine mounts. piece of wood on a jack under the sump is fine. Remove the OS engine mount and the timing belt fibre cover is fully exposed. A small rectangular slot is seen at the top left hand. This allows the timing mark on the cam pulley to be seen. With the car out of gear, rotate the crankshaft (I used a 1/2" socket wrench with 2 long extensions) until the cam pulley timing mark can be seen in the centre of the small slot in the fibre timing cover ( you may need a torch). This is Top Dead Centre (TDC). This can be verified by inserting an 8mm drill bit through a special hole in the engine block, this hole lies just adjacent to the base of the dip stick and a torx headed plug has first to be removed to gain access, a very fiddly job that I found only possible from under the car. At TDC an 8mm drill bit will just engage into an an 8mm hole in the crankshaft and lock it solid. If any movement is apparent you will not be in the correct position. Some very fine adjustment of the crank position may be necessary to allow the drill to engage fully. Note: if the crank can now be moved with the ratchet wrench you have not located TDC.
The timing cover can now be removed, with the engine at TDC (8mm drill fully located in the crank shaft) mark the cam belt pulley position (centre of timing cover slot) with paint on the rear steel plate so that when the belt is removed the reference point may be maintained. Check the belt tension at the belts longest run by twisting it (I could manage about 45 degrees), remove the crank shaft pulley (the renault manual advises against using the drill bit as a stop) remove the belt and belt tensioner and replace with the new belt and tensioner. The belt tension should be reset with a special tool but I have found by setting to around 45 degrees twist on the longest run it seems to be OK Remove the 8mm drill bit and rotate the crank at least two complete turns. Reinsert the 8mm drill at TDC and check that the Cam pulley is still on its mark. If not repeat the procedure as the belt will have jumped a sprocket. The Crankshaft pulley bolt needs to be very tight, again use of the 8mm drill as a stop is not recommended. I tightened to
40 Newton-Metres with the drill in place, removed the drill and used a rubber mallet and a breaker bar to tighten as much as I could (the Renault
recommendation is 40NM plus 100 degrees further revolution) I managed about 30NM plus 90 degrees, but a freinds air gun could not tighten it any more so I guess its OK.
Some information sources suggest that the notch in the steel back plate is the reference setting for the cam pulleys position at TDC, my experience suggests this is incorrect. By using the centre of the slot in the timing cover as the reference and then marking this position on the backplate when the fibre cover is removed timing seemed to be spot on with no unusual engine noises or other adjustments needed at all. Having changed many Cam belts in the past on several different vehicles I found the V40 by far the most awkward, you need a very good set of tools to achieve success.
The auxiliary belt driving the alternator and the power steering and air conditioning pumps is removed first. To gain access the Engine cover is removed. The ECU has to be removed from the side of the engine bay and tied out of the way, to make the job easier it is worth removing the bolts securing the power steering and air-conditioning tubing above the ECU, also the bolts securing the wiring loom to the bulkhead. It is tricky manouvering the ECU out so be careful and avoid snagging the electrical connector of the os headlamp. With the ECU out of the way the auxiliary belt may be removed. By using a spanner on the hexagonal key on the tensioner, its tension can be eased to allow removal of the belt.
Rotate the steering hard to the right to gain access to the crankshaft bolt, no need to remove the inner wing plastic shield as a small flap allows access. It is helpful if the front of the car is also be jacked up and supported on axle stands for safety.
The engine also requires supporting as the off side (OS) engine mount has to be removed. Without support extra stress will be imposed on the other engine mounts. piece of wood on a jack under the sump is fine. Remove the OS engine mount and the timing belt fibre cover is fully exposed. A small rectangular slot is seen at the top left hand. This allows the timing mark on the cam pulley to be seen. With the car out of gear, rotate the crankshaft (I used a 1/2" socket wrench with 2 long extensions) until the cam pulley timing mark can be seen in the centre of the small slot in the fibre timing cover ( you may need a torch). This is Top Dead Centre (TDC). This can be verified by inserting an 8mm drill bit through a special hole in the engine block, this hole lies just adjacent to the base of the dip stick and a torx headed plug has first to be removed to gain access, a very fiddly job that I found only possible from under the car. At TDC an 8mm drill bit will just engage into an an 8mm hole in the crankshaft and lock it solid. If any movement is apparent you will not be in the correct position. Some very fine adjustment of the crank position may be necessary to allow the drill to engage fully. Note: if the crank can now be moved with the ratchet wrench you have not located TDC.
The timing cover can now be removed, with the engine at TDC (8mm drill fully located in the crank shaft) mark the cam belt pulley position (centre of timing cover slot) with paint on the rear steel plate so that when the belt is removed the reference point may be maintained. Check the belt tension at the belts longest run by twisting it (I could manage about 45 degrees), remove the crank shaft pulley (the renault manual advises against using the drill bit as a stop) remove the belt and belt tensioner and replace with the new belt and tensioner. The belt tension should be reset with a special tool but I have found by setting to around 45 degrees twist on the longest run it seems to be OK Remove the 8mm drill bit and rotate the crank at least two complete turns. Reinsert the 8mm drill at TDC and check that the Cam pulley is still on its mark. If not repeat the procedure as the belt will have jumped a sprocket. The Crankshaft pulley bolt needs to be very tight, again use of the 8mm drill as a stop is not recommended. I tightened to
40 Newton-Metres with the drill in place, removed the drill and used a rubber mallet and a breaker bar to tighten as much as I could (the Renault
recommendation is 40NM plus 100 degrees further revolution) I managed about 30NM plus 90 degrees, but a freinds air gun could not tighten it any more so I guess its OK.
Some information sources suggest that the notch in the steel back plate is the reference setting for the cam pulleys position at TDC, my experience suggests this is incorrect. By using the centre of the slot in the timing cover as the reference and then marking this position on the backplate when the fibre cover is removed timing seemed to be spot on with no unusual engine noises or other adjustments needed at all. Having changed many Cam belts in the past on several different vehicles I found the V40 by far the most awkward, you need a very good set of tools to achieve success.
