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Volvo V40 Changing the Cam Belt

This information has been  gathered from personal experience and is believed to be accurate but there is no  guarantee
that this is the case. Anyone using this information does so on the  understanding that its use is completely at their own risk and   that no legal liability of any kind will be accepted by the author for errors or  ommisions or consequential damage to persons or possessions. Prospective
users  should make their own considered judgement or seek specialist advice as to the  accuracy or otherwise of any statements made before using this information in  any way. Some of the procedures covered e.g the Cam belt change could  significantly damage your engine if not carried out correctly so if in doubt  seek professional help.
My V40 was a 2003 1.9D model and had the Renualt engine type D4192T3. The V40 can have one of several different engines so it is vitally important to establish the correct version before folllowing instructions on VADIS or any other information. I have VADIS  and also the relevant Haynes manual for the Renault Megane (2002-2005). 

The auxiliary belt  driving the alternator and the power steering and air conditioning pumps is removed first. To gain access the Engine cover is removed.  The ECU has to be removed  from the side of the engine bay and tied out of the way, to make the job easier  it is worth removing the bolts securing the power steering and air-conditioning  tubing above the ECU, also the bolts securing the wiring loom to the bulkhead.  It is tricky manouvering the ECU out so be careful and avoid snagging the  electrical connector of the os headlamp.   With the ECU out of  the  way the auxiliary belt may be removed. By using a spanner on the hexagonal key  on the tensioner, its tension can be eased to allow removal of the belt.

Rotate the steering hard  to the right to gain access to the crankshaft bolt, no need to remove the inner  wing plastic shield as a small flap allows access. It is helpful if the  front of the car is also be jacked up and supported on axle stands for  safety.
The engine also requires  supporting as the off side (OS) engine mount has to be removed. Without support  extra stress will be imposed on the other engine mounts. piece of wood on a  jack under the sump is fine.   Remove the OS engine mount and the timing belt fibre cover is fully exposed. A small rectangular slot  is seen at the top left hand. This allows the timing mark on the cam  pulley to  be seen. With the car out of gear, rotate the crankshaft (I used a 1/2" socket  wrench with 2 long extensions) until the cam pulley timing mark can  be seen in  the centre of the small slot in the fibre timing cover ( you may need a torch).  This is Top Dead Centre (TDC). This can be verified by inserting an 8mm drill  bit through a special hole in the engine block, this hole lies just adjacent to  the base of the dip stick and a torx headed plug has first to be removed to gain  access, a very fiddly job that I found only possible from under the car. At TDC  an 8mm drill bit will just engage into an an 8mm hole in the  crankshaft and lock  it solid. If any movement is apparent you will not be in the correct position.  Some very fine adjustment of the crank position may be necessary to allow the  drill to engage fully. Note: if the crank can now be moved with the ratchet wrench  you have not located TDC.

The timing cover can now be  removed, with the engine at TDC (8mm drill fully located in the crank shaft) mark the cam belt pulley position (centre of timing cover slot) with paint on  the rear steel plate so that when the belt is removed the reference point may be  maintained. Check the belt tension at the belts longest run by twisting it (I  could manage about 45 degrees), remove the crank shaft pulley (the renault manual advises against using the drill bit as a stop) remove the belt and belt  tensioner and replace with the new belt and tensioner. The belt tension should  be reset with a special tool but I have found by setting to around 45 degrees twist on the longest run it seems to be OK Remove the 8mm drill bit and rotate  the crank at least two complete turns. Reinsert the 8mm drill at TDC and check  that the Cam pulley is still on its mark. If not repeat the procedure as the  belt will have jumped a sprocket. The Crankshaft pulley bolt needs to be very tight, again use of the 8mm drill as a stop is not recommended. I tightened to 
40 Newton-Metres with the drill in place, removed the drill and used a rubber  mallet and a breaker bar to tighten as much as I could (the Renault 
recommendation is 40NM plus 100 degrees further revolution) I managed about  30NM  plus 90 degrees, but a freinds air gun could not tighten it any more so I  guess  its OK.

Some information  sources  suggest that the notch in the steel back plate is the reference setting  for the  cam pulleys position at TDC, my experience suggests this is incorrect. By using  the centre of the slot in the timing cover as the reference and then  marking  this position on the backplate when the fibre cover is removed timing  seemed to  be spot on with no unusual engine noises or other adjustments needed at all.  Having changed many Cam belts in the past on several different vehicles  I found  the V40 by far the most awkward, you need a very good set of tools to  achieve  success.