Bertram Hill
  • Home
  • Contact
  • Motorsport
    • VSCC Rallies
    • VSCC Trials and Tours
    • Motor Sport Circuits
    • Clubs/Hill Climbs
  • Technical
    • Vintage and PVT Information
    • Classic Car Security
    • TVR Griffith
    • Making Exhaust Gaskets
    • TVR S3
    • Multimeter
    • Volvo V40 >
      • Volvo V40 Snapped Bonnet Cable
      • Volvo V40 Changing the Cam Belt
      • Volvo V40 Changing the Alarm Siren
      • Volvo V40 Locking Wheel Nuts Seized
    • Interesting Technical Sites
  • Links
    • Classic/Vintage Car Sales
    • Classic/Vintage Suppliers
    • Workshop Information Sites
    • Driving Links
    • Workshop Suppliers
    • Useful Sites
  • Purchase Prints
TVR Griffith
This information has been gathered from personal experience and is believed to be correct but there is no guarantee that this is the case.  Anyone using this information does so on the understanding that its use is completely at their own risk and that no liability for errors, omissions or consequential damage to persons or possessions will be accepted by the author or his agents.  Prospective users should make their own considered judgement or seek specialist advice as to the accuracy or otherwise of any statements made before using this information in any way.
Picture
Dash Improvements
I have thought  for a while now that TVR's methods of fixing both the dash to the body and the  switch gear to the dash are not amongst their finest moments. Having experienced  the glued on switches fail for a second time I decided to look for a better way. My original  veneered dash was in a poor state so a replacement stainless engine turned  finish dash was installed as a practical alternative. I do prefer the appearance  of the wood (plastic) veneer especially in a green car but thought that for an  open car SS would be much more durable. Following TVR's practice I glued both  switch panels and the LED indicators straight onto the SS panel. This  lasted  about 2 years until the switches became detached.  Another shortcoming on my car was the fact that the dash moved inwards slightly every  time a button was pressed, as the panel is only secured by two self tappers above the steering wheel and a wing nut/washer on the extreme left-hand side this is not really surprising.   I decided that  the switches or rather the steel frames supporting the switches required bolting  to the dash. The LEDs are not subject to any stresses and have never caused a  problem so could remain glued. If they ever loosened the rather smart screw in  matt silver type could be fitted. I had retained  the old mild steel dash so had the idea of re-using this as the main support  with the stainless panel as an escucheon finishing panel on top. By using  countersunk 2 BA bolts in the main mild steel dash these would support the  switches adequately, while the stainless panel would conceal them from view. Of  course the escutcheon panel could be Carbon Fibre, Veneer or  whatever.  In addition, to make the  dash more secure I also added two more fixings to the main dash, a lug to locate  the top and a wing-nut/washer to secure the bottom:  

                                                   The old mild steel dash
Picture
This shows  the original mild steel dash secured with the two original self tappers above  the steering column and the two new fixings. These additional minimise  flexing while operating the push buttons. New countersunk  bolts can be seen securing the switch bank.  

                                         Lug to Secure the Dash Top
Picture
The Lug is simply a bit  of 1/8" steel , drilled to locate on a 2 BA countersunk bolt. The lug is  mounted  just proud of the panel and is spaced by a nut so as to locate under  the  fibreglass dash surround.  
  
                                                 The Wing  Nut  and Washer to secure the bottom of the Dash
Picture
The old mild  steel dash had to be drilled and countersunk to accept the 2 BA contersunk bolts  and some relieving of the button holes was necessary to allow clearance in the  new stainless top panel , this was required as the two panels though very close  were not identical in size. The instrument holes were however all spot on. The  switch brackets may also need a small amount of filing to align accurately. Not  forgetting that the dash assumes a dished profile when mounted so this needs to  be allowed for when aligning switches etc. All countersunk bolts were secured  with 2 BA nuts to the old panel and washers used to level the switch brackets.  Loctite was applied to ensure that they remained tight, as when covered the bolt  heads would be innaccessible. When  everything  appeared to fit, the two panels were glued and cramped using Araldite.   Instruments were fitted  and the assembly manouvred into position. Inaddition to bowing it slightly the  upper fibre glass dash surround can be eased upward to allow the lug to locate  under the rim. There are now two wing nut/washers to be tightened and the two  self tapping screws. The whole set up feels much more stable and business like  and hopefully solves the problem.